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| Home
:: Coaching Adda :: Cricket
Equipment |
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Cricket Equipment |
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A cricketer, however great his natural capabilities, cannot play up to his full strength unless everything about him is in full keeping. Every article of his attire and general outfit is either an assistance or hindrance. Ill-fitting head gear, a baggy sleeve, a tight boot, may make all the difference between a good or a bad innings, a successful or an unsuccessful turn with the ball, a day's enjoyment or a day's hard labor.
None but an experienced hand can estimate the vital importance of attention to all such details: that the bat is the right weight, and properly balanced; that the shoes, gloves and pads are perfect in their fit; that the player stand at the wickets, or in the field, fully equipped, yet not impeded or hindered by ill-fitting garments, clumsy shoes, or cumbersome pads. |
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| For a full fledged game of cricket, the
following are required: |
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 Ball
Bat
Wicket
Protective
gear
Shoes
Clothing
Wicketkeeper's
gear
Accessories |
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| Bat |
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 Bats are made from English willow and Kashmir willow, flat on one side, humped on the other for strength, attached to a sturdy cane handle. The blade has a maximum width of 108 millimeters (4.25 inches) and the whole bat has a maximum length of 965 millimeters (38 inches) but the thickness and weight are left to the fancy or capacity of the player.
Ideally a bat should weigh around 1.150 kg (2lb.9oz) with the balance towards the center of the bat. However some prefer the weight towards the bottom to facilitate a faster downswing. The number of rubber grips on the handle will also vary according to the preference of the individual and the size of his palm. Ultimately while selecting the bat, a batsman must take his stance with the bat, pick it up normally and see if it feels comfortable and confident with it in his hands. The bat must always feel like the extension of the arm In general, a tall man can use a heavier bat than a short one.
Although it is a great mistake to play with a bat that is too heavy to handle with ease, yet the opposite extreme is none the less to be avoided.
Too heavy a bat cramps the play, and entirely prohibits that beautiful wrist -- but on the other hand, one that is too light is useless for hard hitting. |
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Points to be looked for in a bat:
1. Weight suited to the player
2. Good thickness of wood at the 'drive', i.e., about four inches from the end,
at which point the bat should be not less than one and three-quarters, or two
inches in thickness, gradually tapering off up and down towards the end and
towards the handle.
3.
Balance:
So that when wielded there may be no sensation of deadweight at the end, as is
painfully perceptible in all badly balanced bats -- experience alone can teach
the right 'feel' of a bat.
The outward appearance of bats should by no means be invariably taken as a true
indication of their inherent merits; very often a very plain, unstylish-looking
bat is worth a dozen well-got-up, taking-looking specimens.Nevertheless,
nothing but actual trial of each individual 'bit of willow' can bring out all
its inherent qualities, good, bad, or indifferent.
Too much stress should not be placed on the possession of a first rate bat;
good tools cannot make a good workman, nor a fine bat a fine batsman.Yet,
still, the good workman is not at his best without his old familiar tools, and
in like manner the cricketer plays best with a well-approved bat in his hand.
Taking care of bat:
Your bat will give you good service if properly looked after.
The following should be taken into account about bat care:
Oiling:
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Only raw linseed oil must be used. A new bat with natural blade should have one coat of oil on the face, edge, toe and back. This should be applied with a soft rag. Care should be taken that oil does not reach the splice or handle. The knocking in process should commence after application.
 A new bat with natural blade should have one coat of oil on the face, edge, toe and back. This should be applied with a soft rag. Care should be taken that oil does not reach the splice or handle. The knocking in process should commence after application.
No further oil should be applied in the back but, at intervals of two or three weeks, two light coats must be given to the face, edges and toe. Between oilings the bat should be kept in horizontal position.
After use, (summer months) the face and edges of the bat must be cleaned with fine sandpaper, followed by a light application of oil with a soft rag, leaving the blade a little moist. The knocking in process should commence after the application.
No bat should stand in oil. Best results are achieved by smearing over the appropriate area with an oily rag.
Do not leave your bat in moist areas as it absorbs unnecessary moisture.
Do not put unnecessary tape on your bat. |
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| Over Oiling:
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There is much greater danger from a bat being
over-oiled than under-oiled. Over-oiling adds weight, spoils the driving power
and may cause "wood rot".
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| Knocking in: |
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| A new bat, irrespective of finish, should be
knocked in carefully with patience. This is best done by using a knocking
mallet and hitting the blade repeatedly in all areas where the ball would be
expected to make contact. It is not sufficient to play a few gentle "throw
downs" in the nets or back yard. Take time and your bat will give a better
performance and be less likely to suffer damage. |
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| Ball |
 Hard,
cork and string ball, covered with leather. The seam is thus like an equator,
and the stitching is raised slightly. The ball must weigh not less than 155.9g
(5 ½ oz) when new, nor more than 163 g (5 ¾ oz) and must be between 8 3/16 ins
(22.24cm) and 9 ins (22cm) in circumference. Traditionally the ball is dyed
red, with the stitching left white. There are six rows of stiching raised
around the equator of the ball, known as seam. Nowadays white balls are also
used, for visibility in games played at night under artificial lighting. |
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| Wickets |
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 There
are two sets of wickets, consisting of three wooden stumps each with two sets
of wooden bails on top. The wickets with the outside edges of the outermost
stumps should be 228 millimeters (9 inches) apart. This means they are just
close enough together that a cricket ball cannot pass between them. They are
pitched opposite end parallel to one another at 22 yds (20.12 m) distance,
between the centres of the middle two stumps.
Stumps:
The stumps must show 28 ins (71.1 cm) above the ground and be of equal size.
They must be thick enough to stop the ball from passing them. . They have
spikes extending from their bottom end and are hammered into the ground in an
evenly spaced row.
Bails:
 Two
wooden crosspieces which sit in grooves atop the adjacent pairs of stumps. The
bails are 43/8 in (11.1cm) long and must not add more than ½ in (1.3cm) to the
height of the stumps when placed on top.
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| Protective Gear |
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| The batting pads, batting gloves and
abdomen guard are absolutely essential and have to be worn by all batsmen to
prevent injury. The thigh pads, helmet, chest guard and forearm guard can also
be worn depending on the skill and confidence of individual batsman. What is to
be remembered is that each batsman must protect himself according to his
batting capabilities and with relevance to the strength of the opposition and
condition of the pitch
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Gloves |
 Gloves
are worn by the batsmen to protect their hands from the ball as well as to give
the batsmen a firm grip on the handles of their bats. In choosing gloves,
whatever pattern may be selected, the main thing to attend to is to get them to
fit. Nearly any kind of glove will afford the desired protection; it is
therefore necessary to see that the fit be perfect, and that the glove does not
interfere with the grasp and easy handling of the bat. Minor details are
practically immaterial.
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Shoes: |
 Care
must be taken to wear light footwear with protection at the toe and with the
right sole for the surface you are playing.
1. On matting and other artificial surfaces, shoes with rubber spiked soles
will be the most comfortable.
2. On turf wickets and where the wicket is wet and slippery, shoes with rubber
soles and metal spikes in front (Half Spike shoes) are recommended for a secure
grip while running, turning and playing shots.It is absolutely important for a
fast bowler that he looks after his legs. Hence, a bowler choosing a shoe must
keep the following in mind:
The shoe must be
spiked and comfortably fitting with ten to twelve metal spikes. It must be
light with well padded inner soles. The ankle should be cut higher helping to
support the ankle during the delivery stride.
The foot should not
move inside the shoe while landing. It is recommended that a bowler wear two
pairs of thick socks made of cotton, jute or wool depending on the weather
conditions. |
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Thigh Guards |
 A
batsman should use thigh guards, especially when facing fast or medium pace
bowling
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Pads |
| Usual term for the device known as a
leg-guard only in cricket catalogues, a cane and canvas structure strapped to
the lower leg to protect it against the impact of the ball. Also worn by the
wicketkeeper. |
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| Abdominal Protector |
 A vital piece of cricketing
protective equipment, also known as 'box'. |
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Clothing: |
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 Long
pants, shirt (long or short sleeved depending on the weather), possibly a
sleeveless or long-sleeved woollen pullover in cold weather. For games played
with a red ball, the clothing must be white or cream. With a white ball,
players usually wear uniforms in solid team colours. Add a hat or cap to keep
the sun off. There are no regulations regarding identifying marks or numbers on
clothing.
A bowler must also wear a tight pair of sports supporter (jock straps) to
prevent injury around the groin area.
The T-shirt and trouser must be sufficiently loose and comfortable and there
must enough room around the shoulders so that there is no restriction to the
rotation of your arm. Head bands and wristbands are advised to be worn for
those tending to sweat easily.
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Hats |
 There are no specifications and a player may wear any hat according to his preference. |
| Helmet |
Helmet is used to protect against the rising delivery. Should have full grille to give better protection
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| Wicketkeeper's Gear |
 The
glove chosen by a keeper has to feel like the natural extension of the arm. The
rubber facing should be pimpled and should not have any smooth spots. The
fingers must reach the end of the glove, which is usually protected with foam
padding.
The palm should be
well padded and at the same time, allow the formation of the `cup' quite
easily. The webbing between the thumb and forefinger must be sufficient to
prevent the ball from escaping after it has been caught.
Depending on personal
preference, gloves with loose floppy fingers or with the fingers attached at
the base, can be used. 
Inner gloves are
recommended to be worn and the number again depends on the keeper's comfort.
Generally one pair of inner gloves made of chamois leather with some padding
will be ideal.
Earlier keepers used
to wet the inner glove (which was generally made of cotton) but now its better
to take a few catches before going in to keep, as this facilitates sweating and
makes it supple and flexible.
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| Pads & Other Gear: |
 Usual
term for the device known as a leg-guard only in cricket catalogues, a cane and
canvas structure strapped to the lower leg to protect it against the impact of
the ball. Also worn by the wicketkeeper.
The pads worn are
generally the ones with the top flaps shortened and held by only two straps.
Care should be taken to see that the knee roll is sufficiently padded to
prevent injury while gathering low balls rolling on the ground. The pads should
preferably be light with extra foam padding at the shin, as this is the place
the ball strikes most often if it is missed.
 An
abdomen guard must be worn inside the pouch of the supporter (jock straps) at
all times and its position must be checked and adjusted if necessary before
every ball.
On bouncy turning
pitches, when you have to keep up to the spinners, it is advisable to wear a
helmet with a visor to increase your confidence in getting behind the line of
the ball to gather it. At all others times a cap or hat is a must to keep away
the sun and help concentrate on the action
A good pair of shoes
is also very essential. Generally good rubber spiked shoes will suffice quite
nicely, though if the conditions are damp and slippery, it is recommended to
use half spike shoes. The metal spikes in front will give you the grip to move
or dive when standing back to fast bowlers.
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| Accessories: |
| Kit bag: |
 Used
for carrying the clothes, shoes etc. by the player. |
| Bowler's marker: |
 Used
for marking the run-up of a bowler. |
| Score book: |
| Used for keeping records of the
match. |
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Top
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Cric Contest Ratings |
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Tests
ODIs
T-20
Combined |
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First ever Premier Ratings. Who leads whom? A unique formula devised by the criccontest team.  |
| Mohandas Menon |
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